Bouldering the Big Sur Coast by Larry Arthur c 1988

Big Sur bouldering is a celebration of climbing, the rugged coastline and the areas abundant wild life. In a minimum of time - the odd hour or afternoon - one can be transported to an entirely other world filled with adventure and beauty. Located in the heart of the California Sea Otter Preserve, conditions are ever-changing and present a new challenge each day. All the elements: sun, rain, fog, wind, sand and the tides are key factors that keep things entertaining and also make some climbs real "sporty". The route you had "wired" yesterday, last month or last season may require a whole new approach on your next trip. If you accept this challenge, climb all months of the year and in all conditions - you'll become a better climber and be better prepared for climbing in the mountains where conditions are always uncertain. Persistence and strategic planning will pay off - those who will make the effort to pursue these fine routes will be well rewarded. "Remember, the hardest move is out the door."
   

FIRST ASCENSIONISTS AND AREA EXPLORERS
The 60's: Drummond Hoffman, Norm McBride, Joe Bryant, et al
The 70's LA, Barry Bates, Mark Engstrom, Gary Fox, Phyllis Garcia, Jack Holmgren, Larry Martin, Billy Morris, Robert Otter, Danielle Martin, Keith Vandevere
The 80's LA, Sam Davidson, Rick Erker
The 90's LA and friends
Y2K and beyond - anybody out there?

THIS AIN'T NO GYM CLIMBING!
Beware of tides, rogue waves, loose and/or slippery rocks - on the routes or on the approach. Pay attention on the approach - often more dangerous than the climbs. Because of the coastal rock's natural extreme weathering and resulting exfoliation it's necessary to check your holds and anchors carefully each and every time you climb - no matter how many times you've "flashed" a problem. In twenty-something years I've seen many holds, bolts (and even entire routes) disappear! Any bolt remaining should be considered purely psychological and must be backed up. Don't place new bolts as they will weather out in a season. Tradition and survival dictate placing and removing your own gear and thoroughly testing it before use. Besides - this is good practice for you and your partner before heading to the Pinnacles or Yosemite.

TOOLS
Basic gear needed to set a yo-yo top rope will consist of 3-4 wedge nuts, 2-3 small Tri-Cams, 2-3 mid-size Hexes or SLCDs, 12 carabiners and 6 long runners or anchor slings. Routes are marked "TR" if top rope set up is commonly used. Helmets are a good idea due to loose rock on some routes but are rarely seen. At least 60 ft rope will do for most routes- some exceptions exist and are mentioned in the routes description. Be sure to rinse your gear after being in the salt air (or in contact with salt water). Any rock climbing shoes will work, slippers or stiff edging shoes have advantage on some slab or thin routes. Take a small towel for standing on or wiping shoe rubber and a soft "hardware" brush for cleaning holds. Chalk should be used sparingly or not at all - particularly on coastal sandstone. Chalk reacts with sweat, moist salt laden air and other chemicals and calcifies to essentially form "lime stone" which will quickly glaze over key holds. Hmmm, the more I chalk the more slippery the holds get.... Most climbers use chalk sparingly or not at all!

PARTNERS
A bouldering partner (or two) are necessary for some of the routes (particularly at Granite and Crab Town) where the landings are uneven rock or tippy cobblestones. Be careful - landing technique is something that can be learned and mastered but is not natural for all climbers. If you don't possess the agility of a cat be sure to have a good spotter or top rope set up. Remember you are climbing in remote, infrequently traveled areas and no points are awarded for getting dinged. Hook up with someone thru Mountain Tools, the Sanctuary gym, Outdoor Rec (Presidio DLI & CSUMB) or at school.

BS. RATINGS
The B.S. Rating System (stands for Big Sur of course) may be an indication of how hard the problem is. Some routes have only been done legitimately a few times. Usually a route will be tested by many climbers, with repeated attempts until the problem is solved. This seems to apply to the "easy" routes too - which can be sequencey, overhanging or very pumpy. Some try a time or two and give up. Don't get discouraged or "hung up" on a routes rating - keep trying! It may take many trips to "train and get strong" for a particular route but once it's in the bag you'll be stylin' on it forever. Most difficult routes use only specific hand and foot holds - variations of course alter the grade and the climb. B.S. Rating System is an open ended system from 1-? loosely based on the Yosemite Decimal System (5.0-5.14) with some sub categories for 10-13. Hazardous routes are noted by an additional "X" (strong potential of injury) or "R" Rating (extremely run out or bad landing) others are considered "PG" (Pretty Good ) if top rope or spotters are employed. "W" is the Wet - "climb or swim" rating, from getting your feet wet to a full dunking if you come off.

INFO & CORRECTIONS
A guide book is a curious thing... while every attempt has been made... We'd appreciate your input - email with corrections / additions / updates / new route info / feedback, etc. or email toolman@mtntools.com to update our info.

MILEAGE FROM RIO ROAD & HIGHWAY 1 SOUTH

0 mile RIO ROAD Traditional rendezvous for climbers is at The Bagel Bakery in Carmel Rancho Center near Luckys. (turn left onto Carmel Valley Road and then Right onto Carmel Rancho, turn right at the signal light). 

.2 miles CARMEL RIVER BRIDGE (park south of bridge)
Crimpy glue-on holds - save for a rainy day. Careful not to blow tendons. Discreet buildering on highway side of Cross Roads Cinema can build endurance on positive 1/2" (concrete block) edges.

.8 miles CARMEL MEADOWS - Turn right off Hwy 1 onto Ribera Road - park at end) Porphyritic granite slabs and faces overlooking Whalers Cove and Point Lobos State Reserve. Nice views! Several bouldering problems and a few top ropes are worth doing. Watch your landings for poison oak and broken glass from environmentally insensitive bottle tossers. Don't step on plants... and be nice to the neighbors. Keep it to yourself or share with a friend... the Meadows is not suitable for group climbing.

NORTH CLUSTER (poison oak at base)
Path of the Master BS11 X (facing steps leading to the beach) - Left of the flake-crack. A very steep, thin, edgy and bold crystal crimper. Watch your landing!

Undercling Flake BS9 R Undercling start, lay away & jam to the top. Exit move is dicey. Try direct face start (harder) or climbing up and left from undercling (easier).

AQUILLE du CARMEL (desend to base at south side)
Crack a No-Go BS9 R (prominent pointy "spire" halfway to main slab) Climb the easy crack to the ledge and finish straight up on face / crystals. Variation: at ledge, go left and then up the crack (both are bold solos). Top rope is a good idea. Bail out is possible from the mid height ledge (to the right)
.

MONKEY TRAVERSE ROCK (desend between upper rock and Main Slab)
Balance Rock BS8-10 PG- The rock just above MTR has 3 short face climbing variations that can be incorporated in your "circuit" on the way down to the lower Monkey Traverse. Traverse from right to left then up, go straight up the middle or mantle (or high step) the left edge.

Crystal Face BS12 X- On the lowest rock before the big slab. Climb (if you can) straight up the left side of the thinnest face (left of diagonal ramp that starts Monkey Traverse). Very sequencey, sharp and thin. 3rd classed only a few times. Can be TR'd with mid-sized cams and long runners.

The Ramp BS8 R - shuffle up the ramp to an airy stance on the prow... then make a reach to sloping summit ledge. Careful! Top Ropable.

Monkey Traverse BS8 PG - arm building traverse right around corner of previous route - stay low, then follow edges and ledges up and right to top of first groove. Keep climbing! Now drop down and right, turn another corner and crank to the top. If you get pumped you can bail out to a chimney-stem position. Do as many laps as you can.

MAIN SLAB (Wedding Rock)
Step Up and Go BS7 X - left of Main Slab. Top rope recommended (bad landing). Start at nasty flake. Make a undercling slab moves up and right, then pull onto a knob, balance and contemplate remaining moves up the crack. Top out left of summit. Glad you roped up!

Main Slab BS4-8 Climb left center and right (bail out). TR recommended due to friable dice-size crystals and serious road rash potential! Slab steepens at top where smearing become crucial. Start up white dike, take the direct route or make up your own - several variations. Good face and slab practice.
 

2.2 PT LOBOS STATE RESERVE - several rocky outcroppings of dubious quality exist here. Rock climbing is prohibited within the Reserve - plan a bike tour (on pavement), a quick hike in the forest or exploring the dramatic coastline. Admission fee if you park on the highway.
 

3.4 miles WILDCAT CANYON BRIDGE has had various glue on and bolt on routes. At one time this bridge was "fully equipped" but rumor has it that vandals stripped the bolt-on holds. The underside of this bridge, in the shape of a Gothic arch is slightly overhanging at the bottom (40 ft traverse) and ever steepening to it's peak (20 ft high). Lead bolts go to the top - climb then lower or reverse climb. Park discreetly - north of the bridge or "around the corner" - either Spindrift Way or up Peter Pan Rd to the dirt turn out. If you're not quiet or irritate the neighbors in any way you could get busted. Have respect. Full stealth mode required!
 

4.2 miles MAL PASO CREEK BEACH (access trail from north side road) - rock quality poor to fair. Some traverses just south of creek mouth. Cobble beach is very nice.
 

5.1 miles CRAB TOWN Just past the beginning of Garrapata State Beach (sign). Park @ "No Overnight Camping" sign just past road cut immediately beyond last house in Otter Cove development. Walk 50 meters south on the old coast highway (dirt) past small stand of Pines and turn right following a trail (avoid Poison Oak) to the Main Rock. Granite rock with wild dikes form low angle slab to upside down heel hooking routes with uneven, hard, rock landings. Problems from BS1 to BS11 with opportunity to practice clean aid and hooking (use fixed rope or top rope belay to keep you off the ground and out of the hospital).

UP TOWN (North Area)
Headland Rock, W - make a leap of faith, jump across to the outer rock - you'll immediately be climbing 5.7. Explore easy routes to the summit or TR the slab. Watch the tide and waves for the return trip.

Lieback Problem BS10 R/X - technical, keep focused. Start in scoop facing ocean. Wiggle up until you can grab a good edge. A good spotter will keep you off the boulders at the base.

Top Rope Face BS8-10 PG (but grainy & loose) - several routes (face, flake and corner) can be climbed. Set anchors well in crack at top. All the rock at the base used to be part of the routes! *** the rocks & routes to the right collapsed winter '03-04 *** be extremely careful in this area!

Northern Traverse BS5-9 PG - start at right of Top Rope Face and work left a foot or two off the ground. Work your way around a short buttress and in and around a 6ft wide alcove.

Palm Traverse BS 10 PG - from the alcove (above) work left on the overhang using slopers for hands (and not much for your feet). Turn corner and finish up the slab. Slab may be climbed from bottom too.

MID TOWN
Mantle Problem BS9 R - High and undercut boulder with diagonal seam. Dyno-power-mantle to get your feet on the rock. Have spotter on the job!

Easy Corner BS6 PG- Face climb and layback up left facing corner with finger crack and good edges. (down climb to the far left)

Roof Crack BS? TR - Has this been climbed? Sharp edged, overhanging flared cracks are very intimidating. Walk up the slab, plug in and start cranking up thruough the slot. Nuts for anchors.

DOWN TOWN (Main Rock)
Naked Corner (below Naked Edge) BS9, TR - climb up and left on the slab- fingertips & smearing.

Naked Edge BS10, TR - On first attempt Jeff Maudlins rope was sliced to the core - rig carefully by sliding a 3 ft length of 1" tubular webing onto your rope before tying in. Arm traverse & heal hook up left on the dike-edge to the corner. Watch the swing!

Inside Corner BS8, TR - Easy moves lead to a jam and steep, exposed layback. Small nuts can be placed in the crack (right at the lip) as directionals. Set your anchor back 6-10 ft where there are good cracks.

Outside Face BS10, TR - Narrow face is thin and technical with small crack and edges. (try not to use the corners).

Outside Face to Right Corner BS7, TR - Stand up and climb up and right around corner, layback to the top.

Down Town Traverse BS7-10 Start at Inside Corner, stay low, and traverse the whole rock (40-50 ft) a foot or two off the deck. Double back for extra workout.

Friction Route BS7, TR - Try the low angle face (left side), without using any big holds - just your palms against the rock. Good practice for Tuolumne.

Easy Crack BS5, PG - up climb or down climb. Hand and fist size is good TR for beginners (big cams can be placed at top).

Intermediate Cracks BS7 (left) and ,BS8 (righ) TR - Actually face to crack problems. Committing at top and a bad landing guaranteed if unroped.  

SOUTH SECTION
MENTAL BLOCK (to the South) named for the visionary John Gill problems at Horse Tooth Reservoir in Ft. Collins, CO. Descend chimney at south to rock-bench at the base of climbs.

Triple Cracks BS7-9 TR - Waves & tides dictate access to start which can be very slippery . After setting anchors & tossing rope, descending chimney, walk north, around and down to start of routes.

The Eliminator BS11 X - Faces Mid Town Rock. Start up ramp which steepens and then gets real thin. Make committing moves way up high. Palm holds and a prayer gets you up and off. Top rope would be nice

Mental Block BS12 R - Faces ocean, just left of chimney. Maximum concentration required for purely psychological lie away smear and lunge. Bad landing!
 

6.5 miles SOBRANES POINT (North) - small sea stacks have been climbed here - with water approach. Catalog Corner is easy, obvious dihedral. Short fine grain granite faces can be top roped - just above water line. Check out beach bouldering at creek - waterfall area. Divers and tourists a plenty.

Just past Sobranes Point you will be in view of Pt. Sur Lighthouse. Several places to climb exist from here to Pt. Sur and are definitely worth exploring!

7.8 miles GRANITE CREEK (just past Dept of Fish and Games Research Station) Boulder problems and TR's from BS1 to BS13 in difficulty. Rock is steep to overhanging with sharp crimpy holds. This is the site where the B.S. Rating System was born - keep this in mind when you check out the routes. Park in the 3rd turn out past the bridge - from here you can also see the prominent rock at the mouth of Garrapata Creek. With binoculars, conditions and tides are easily checked. Follow the (now) improved trail that leads down to the top of several climbs. For extra training run back up after your session. The Crypt Wall (granite retaining wall) is just to the south - good for building up your forearms and endurance.
 

NORTHER EXPOSURE
Northern Rock - fun traverse around entire rock. Easy top rope (BS5) can be set up for beginners at north end. Climb the crack, using face/foot holds. Old bolt remenant at top.

The Happy Hooker BS13? PG - Butt start, hang from sick slopers and heel hooks to circumnavigate this horizontal seam. Unrepeated since rock shifted in mid 80's.

Traverse Wall BS12 PG- faces north, just north of Amphitheater, grainy very difficult . Climb left from low saddle on sharp, overhanging holds.
 

AMPHITHEATER (clockwise from north)
Overhanging Traverse BS9 PG/R - climb from the low saddle rock-left to the buttress, then up

Balance Problem BS9 PG -at the saddle climb a thin line up a crease... after you've got up, try it one handed.

Psycho Mantle BS11 R Leap up the bulging overhang and latch the sloper. Pull, press and balance then lunge for top. Gutsy, have a good spotter!!

Bottomless Corner BS10 R - Like climbing the corner of your bedroom. Chimney, then stem to get established. Press up until you can reach a pinky jam (above an old broken vertical piton) and crank to the top.

Mantle Problem BS8 PG - sloping ledge on the outside corner, use two hands or one

Barry's Lunge BS?- left of crack, heiniously hard I'm told

Gary's Lunge BS? - slightly easier...

Top Rope Crack BS7-9 X or TR - Marked by stainless steel "glue in" bolt. at top. Back this up to 5/8" bolt on upper face. Start to the right of crack line, lie back, jamb and fight your way to top. Try the left side start for extra fun. Don't trust fixed hardware! Back it up!

Roof Problem, BS10 TR- Climb up and right through pink dike and over roof to delicate finishing moves. Watch your rope - rock is sharp!

Steep Steps BS9 TR - 10 ft right of the Roof, climb black rock to edges up a minor buttress then finish up a hand crack.

LOWER HALLWAY - WEST FACE
Black Corner BS9 R - thin and reachy. Undercling, move right and layback a thin face flake. Tippy cobbles below demand a vigilant spotter. Other problems in this area.

LOWER HALLWAY - EAST FACE
Slope Mantle BS10 PG- on the end of a low fin of rock. If you can press this you'll be ready for the DNB!

The Slot BS5 - This is a corner-crack on the sharp and pocked black rock above and behind the Slope Mantle. It makes an easy way - up or down.

Down Under BS10 TR - start below and down from the big chock stone at the base of the Lieback Cracks. Start with a totally improbable (but good) undercling. Move up and left to key face holds. Pull up to shallow corner and layback carefully to holds higher up. Balance to the top.

Lieback Crack - Right BS6 X/TR - left facing corner is just up the Hallway from the last problem. Doing "laps" up and down is good practice. Back up single bolt with long runners and your own gear! Approach top via ramp to left next to Balance Slab.

Lieback Crack - Left BS7 or 8 X/TR - left facing flake/corner has no bottom and is more strenuous than the adjoining route. Same anchors. For the full forearm burn, climb up the Left Crack, down the Right Crack and traverse back left to the start. Repeat.

UPPER HALLWAY - WEST FACE (left to right)
Descent Corner - Solid crack in corner and flake-edge holds. This is the common way to desend into the Upper Hallway. New climbers will want a spotter.

Crimp Face BS10 R - Test your finger strength and balance by standing up on this! Finish hand holds are friction smears - have your feet well established. More diificult variation on prow at left.

Pinch-Lunge BS12 R - Layback edge to painful finger stack then pull up. Reachy layaway from offset seam to slopers on top. Hard with a committing, difficult finish. Tape fingers.

Low Traverse BS7-9 - Climb with your feet just off the ground below overhangs and blocks. Good strength training.
 

UPPER HALLWAY - EAST FACE (left to right)
These routes are short, steep to overhanging and very sequencey. All have been climbed without a rope (after being mastered on TR). Most Golden Age development was at the hands of Barry Bates, who's talent is also recorded on several Yosemite routes - like Lunatic Fringe, Supplication, Five & Dime and others. If not length, Granite is a great place to train for harder routes. If you can climb these problems, you will build necessary strength and technique for leading routes at the Pinns or in the Sierra.
Years ago, I heard that Larry Martin had boldly sent the ol' 5.9 sans rope, so I raced down to Granite and did the deed too (what ever he can climb....)! It was at a cocktail party (much later) that I mentioned this to the Martin who denied any such doing. Yipes!
On a visit in '94, Colorado climber and master boulderer Mark Wilford on-sighted the "5.9" with some apprehesion and a bit of beta. With a calm but concerned look Mark looked down and asked: "You said the next hold is where? " Watch yourself.
Mortals will want to hike the ramp above the Balance Slab and set up a top rope belay. Old bolts at the top of climbs should not be trusted and only used as reference points and directionals for your SERENE trad gear anchors.

The 5.6 (aka The Ledge) BS6 TR or X - crank onto a ledge, stand up and figure out how to get to the top. An ancient ring hanger bolt marks the top. Use this for a directional and place nuts 6 ft back in a crack.

The 5.8 (aka The Under Cling) BS8 TR or X- Start directly below small triangular "pinch roof". Climb straight up into undercling position using lie away edges and a knob (the baseball). Once you get both hands onto the undercling - fire for the top... if you can let go with one hand!

The 5.9 (aka The Keyhole) BS9 TR or X - Start right with an undercling, then two fingers in a pocket. Lay away up and right to the Keyhole and into a standing position from which you can reach for a thin side pull at the top. Stay with it. Persistence pays off, eventually.

The 5.10 (aka The Flake) BS10 TR or XX - climb straight up to the Keyhole (not from the left) and then pinch and undercling right until it's possible to reach over the bulging headwall to slab holds. Watch your feet!

The 5.11 (aka The Face) BS11 TR XX - start from the top of Balance Slab. Opening moves on sharp pointed lie-away holds lead to a long reach and then the undercling. After regaining your wits - and before you gas, move right and pull over the headwall.

Balance Slab - walk this "no hands" - both directions - while waiting for your foreams to recover
 

THE OUTSIDE
At the southern end of the Hallway down climb to tide pools edge. WATCH FOR ROGUE WAVES!

Pool Man Traverse BS9 W- head south on a committing series of slopers and no-se-um foot holds just above the water level.

Jam Crack (aka Crack of Pain) BS8 R - in the small overhanging alcove. Painful jamming for two or three moves, then latch an edge and pull through the overhang. Tape or tear.

Outer Traverse BS10 PG - Improbable but fun. Work left from previous route. Relatively easy start is camouflaged with blind reaches and balance moves. Take note of the bail out flake right under foot. Gets thinner and reachy as you continue. Finish in corner or blast to the top via small pockets and shallow scoops after the traverse crux.

Several moderate routes on this wall start here (near the flake) and can be easily top roped. Set nuts in cracks above and extend anchor slings to lip.

Explore further (rock left) and find a fun traverse, committing roof problem, a jamb crack and an easy corner.
 

SOUTHLAND
Crypt Wall BS6-10, PG-X - the man made granite block wall - good for endurance training or the "final burn" before running up the trail. Be careful as you can get pretty high and the top out is flat cement (and slippery ice plant). The LZ is no better - sloping and slippery. Look for 1/4" bolt holes - at one time there was a bolted traverse route here.

Fish On! BS8-9, TR, X- 100 meters south of drainage outflow. Place anchors and rap or lower ~ 25 ft to water line. Swing in, grab some rock and start cranking to the top. Beware of tides, swell and wave timing.
 

8.9 Garrapata Creek Area (park in dirt strip n. of the Stone House) Follow marked trail to stairs and the beach, turn left to climbs. Fantastic sand landings below most problems. Bring a towel or launch pad. Diablo Sandstone is same as Mickey's Beach, Mt. Diablo and Castle Rock with crimpy plates, friction and the occasional pocket or big knob. Some climbs traverse over water which adds to the adventure! Tides and Creek discharge affect conditions - strategic planning and persistence are required to bag some of these routes.
 

FIRST COVE (these climbs face north)
The Wave BS12 R - Few have succeeded where many have bailed! Climb onto the overhanging pebble-y face, move up and left and finish by laybacking and pinching the small corner, then crimping summit slopers. Pack your parachute!

BezErker Route BS11, R- pimp pebbles and slopers straight up the face, just right of The Wave

Cave Overhang BS10, PG - Undercling, move up and make a long reach to a pinch. Get your feet up and balance. Keep it together on the way to the top.

Overhang Face BS9, PG - Climb up square-cuts and flakes on outside corner - just to the right of the Cave.

Archie's Traverse, BS10, PG - climb left along roof-edge, then down and across. Once you latch the other side, it is possible to traverse futher left and continue up the Overhang Face for a real pump.

Diabolical Arch BS10, PG -next beach cove south. Undercling tips with smears the whole way. Usually climbed from left. Turn the corner (BS12) and finish straight up for extra credit.

Diabolical Arch Direct, BS9-11 (depending on sand height) PG - Try the directissima which follows a shallow pocketed groove at the apex of the arch.

Easier routes lie directly across from the DA on cracks, slab and aretes. Great top rope practice for beginners.

JUST NORTH OF CREEK MOUTH
Several excellent boulder routes lie just north of the estuary (facing the ocean) including a great traverse, a hand crack, a pockety 120º roof and thin face.
 

GARAPATA ESTUARY (north side)
Approach to Dire Straits BS7-8, Traverse north side of lagoon on positive holds. Mostly over water with occasional rest spots. Good training in your Five Tennies. Remember you'll have to reverse the traverse or climb...

Dire Straits BS12, PG, W - Multiple crux, sequence and enduro problem traverses under the overhanging arch on the North side of the Creek. This route required a serious amount of persistence to learn plus specific training to complete. Young Utah climber Boone Speed showed an incredible amount of "stick" by managing to complete the entire problem after arresting several dramatic falls! Cryin' Cowboy Todd Skinner got a hand across the water and then got lucky... with blow by blow beta. The few locals who have done this deed include Bascou, Davidson & Martin and the ex patriot Canuk-turned-Swiss Dan Markle. Others step forward and identify yourselves! Several months of attempts (and many pairs of wet shoes) were required to get this problem "wired".
Remember, flaming out mid route immediately precedes getting wet - have those guns fully charged!

Dire Flyer BS11, R, W - Climb directly up overhang and into shallow recess above. Continue to top (scruffy) or jump. Some months may provide sand landing.

IN CREEK BED / ESTUARY (South side)
Martian Traverse BS10, PG - Climb the short wall with sharp holds east of the hanging fin of rock and cave.

Several easy traverses and short solos an be done between these routes.

5.10 ROCK (This is the tallest rock to the south of the creek mouth) Set up a top rope from a manky bolt plus your own gear. Access is from S. shoulder (exposed pull-up move).

Flake Routes, BS10-11 X or TR - start on ledge / approach ramp that leads in from the right. Climb up plates and edges to right side of sloping ledge. Finish up slab to top.

Face Routes, BS10-11 Xor TR - . start directly below ledge, climb steep outside corner up and then angle left to sloping ledge. Finish up slab to top.

Crack Route BS10, X or TR Climb patina edges on "approach flake" to tilted ledge at the base of crack. Stand up in hueco, jam and lie away up crack to gain sloping ledge at right. Compose yourself for friction moves to the top. Most will want a rope. A very bold solo.

Variations on a Seam BS11-12, X or TR - Climb the "approach flake" to it's mid point, then up edges and left around corner. Scrample to top. Variation heads up right on pocketed face just left of Crack Route.

Slab Overhang BS9, R or TR - Start low in alcove (facing ocean). Thin moves on lower face put you in position to get a good handle on things above the roof. Test upper holds carefully before commiting.

Approach Gulley BS3, PG - use this gulley to go up and over to WTP or access the shoulder and final step to summit of the 5.10 Rock

SOUTH OF CREEK (ocean side)
The ocean side of the 5.10 rock is lesser angle, but may have interest for some easy top rope climbs. Check it out. Traverses are possible from here to WTP.

Walk the Plank BS11, R or TR - Balance up slab just right of the leaning corner. Tricky moves at top will have many's last wish be a top rope. Use chalk sparingly as it will make the problem harder!

Or Get the Shank BS12 R or TR - Shares same finish as route above. Start in corner (to the right of WTP), stay low, traverse up and left to outside corner of The Plank. Pull over into corner and then on to the top.

Glassy and Still Pumping BS10 PG - Start in the alcove then move up and right on on smooth (sometimes slippery) face with pebbles.

Keel Haul BS10 PG - Climb the overhanging holds (up and left) to the sharp arete (just right of G.& S.P). Pull up your way to top.
 

9.4 miles ROCKY POINT - follow the signs to the restaurant, park in lower lot. Rocky Point Restaurant is a swank cliff side "surf and turf" locals restaurant and bar. This area has lots of potential. Maintain a low profile.

NORTH AREA
Rocky Horror Show, BS11 TR- north area, obscure. Thin crack, crimps and pimps. Potential for other routes in vicinity. Hike out and around a canyon that runs parellel to the coastline. Rocky Horror is on a buttress facing out to sea (and concealed from resturant view).

SOUTH ROCK
Trolling for Bass, BS10 TR - south rock as seen from lower parking. Hike out tourist trail and down ridge to water line. Cross over to rock (soon to be sea stack) and climb inland side to summit. Fiddle in some nuts for an anchor and cast off! Full rope required. Extremely overhanging face is a blast - if you pop off you'll need to be reeled back in by your partner!

Cave Route, BS8 TR - to the left of Trolling... big juggy and steep. Have fun pulling your way up.

Beyond Rocky Point - Lots of places are yet to be discovered and many routes are left to be done... I've spent many of my years "working my way down the coast"... a few moves at a time. Someone kidded that I must be slow but to go any faster would be to miss the essence of the experience. The exotic mixture of elements - land, rock, sea, waves, weather. There is a lot of the Sur, many miles of coastline - with hidden coves, beaches and of course excellent rock to climb on. I should tell you about the cliffs below the Coast Gallery sometime... or way further south at the tip of Baja - Los Cabos. The route Erk & I did on Pacifico Tower or the worthless bolt atop La Roca del Pelicanos are "classics". You gotta hear sometime about the excellent route Jay and Bob put up over this cave that was big enough to park a plane in...