CLIMBING ROPES

 UIAATest ->
mfg/model

Dia.

Type

UIAA
#101
Test Falls
Impact
Force
Dynam
Elong
%

Static
Elong
%
55kg
80kg

Sheath
Slip-page
wt

# of
bobbins
sheath
mass
best
use *

bi-color
or
pattern

Price
std/dry
$/$
60M
Price
std/dry
$/$
70M
  BlueWater    
                     
ARGON
8.8
OO
1/2
1
5
13
24
8
6
9
28
25
23
8.8
8.8
5
0
53
-
36
A,I,M,T
no
std/dry
229/249
std/dry
268/289
EXCELLENCE
sold as pair
8.4
1/2
10
5.5
33.7
11
-
46
40
41
A,I,M,T
no
std/dry
dry/203
sale
$151.88
na/na
XENON
twin, single & half rated
9.2
OO
1/2
1
7
21
42
7.7
6
8.9
29
30
24
4.7
4.7
3.2
0
59
40
33
A,S,T
yes
dry/257

dry/296
LIGHTNING PRO
9.7
1
8
7.9
31
8.8
0
64
48
37
S,T,I,M
yes
std/dry
251/272
Bi 316
std/dry
292/315
Bi 359
10.2
1
8
7.9
30
7.2
0
68
48
34
T,S,M
yes
std/dry
255/278
Bi 337
std/dry
298/322
Bi 367
10.5
1
9
7.8
27.9
9.0
0
76
48
32
W,T, TR
yes
std/dry
260/281
na/na
  Mammut    
                     

ALPINE SENDER
fire, blue
7.5
1/2
1
7
5.6
8.8
31.6
7
0
39
48
36
A,I.M
no
na/219
na/249
8.0
1/2
00
9
5.6
9
31.6
8.5
0
40
48
41
I,M,A
no
na/229
na/259
9.0
1/2
1
00
5
20
8.5
6.3
9.2

31
7.5
7.5
0
54
39
39
T,I,M,A
no
80M
329
100M
389

9.5
1
5
8.9
31
8.0
0
59
40
36
A,I.M
no
na/289
na/329
9.5
1
8
8.2
33
7.5
0
58
40
42
S,T
no
179/na
219/na

CRAG DRY DUO
purple-orange

9.5
1
8
8
30
6
0
60
40
40
S,T
yes
duo
279
duo
319

CRAG CLASSIC
orange-white
blue-white
9.8
1
8
8.5
32
7
0
61
40
40
T,S
no
189/na
299/na
  Petzl    
                     
VOLTA Dry
gray, orange
9.2
1
1/2
00
6
20
30
8.6
6.8
10.5
33
30
26
6
0
55
40
42
S,T,A,M
no
na/304.95
na/334.95
ARIAL Dry
blue, red
9.5
1
7
8.8
32
7.6
0
58
40
40
T,S,M
no
na/279.95
na/314.95
CONTACT
blue, green
9.8
1
7
8.4
35
9
0
60
40
41
T,S,A,M
no
269.95/na
299.95/na
MAMBO
green, turq
10.1
1
7
8.5
34
8.5
0
65
40
37
W,T
no
249.95/na
279.95/na
  Sterling    
                     
AERO
blue, green
9.2
1
1/2
00
8.8
8.6
10.1
7.5
6.6
6.1
26.4
8
0
56
na
41
S, T, I
yes
-
273/312
70 Bi 401
IONR
blue, yellow
9.4
1
5
8.7
26.4
8
0
57
na
39
T, S
yes
-
284/318 70 Bi 390

 
   
                     
 UIAATest ->
mfg/model

Dia.

Type

UIAA
#101
Test Falls
Impact
Force
Dynam
Elong.

Static
Elong.

Sheath
Slip-page
wt

# of
bobbins
sheath
mass
best
use *

bi-color
or
pattern

Price
std/dry
60M
Price
std/dry
70M
UIAA Norm
twin
12 80kg
< 12
40
10
20
-
-
-
 
-
-
-
UIAA Norm
half
5 55kg
< 8
40
20
12
-
-
-
 
-
-
-
UIAA Norm
sin-
gle
5
80kg
< 12
40
10
20
-
-
-
 
-
-
-
2015 - NEW STANDARD * UIAA DRY - water absorption standard = less 5% total wt.                            


Notes:
DIAMETER - measured while weight hangs from rope, affected by weave as well as amount of material
UIAA TYPE (click here for graphic info)
TWIN ROPES OO - used in pairs, both Ropes must be clipped to each protection point;
HALF ROPES 1/2 - used in pairs, each rope is clipped singly to alternating (every other) protection point;
SINGLE ROPES 1 - used singly, the rope is clipped to each protection point.
UIAA FALLS (click here for graphic info) - general measure of overall durability in a "worst case" scenario with 1.77 fall factor- see test diagram. Comparable only within same UIAA Type as tests are preformed with either 50 kg (half ropes - 5 fall min.) or 80 kg mass (single ropes 5 fall min, and twin rope systems - 12 fall min).
IMPACT FORCE - the maximum force generated during a test fall, lower force = softer "catch" 12kN max for Single and Twin Rope Systems; 8 kN max for Half Ropes
DYNAMIC ELONGATION - the % rope stretch occurring during 1st Test Fall. 40% max.
STATIC ELONGATION - the % of rope stretch with 80 kg (176 lbs) simulating "climber" load. Must be less than 10% for Single and Twin Rope Systems and less than 20% for Half Ropes.
SHEATH SLIPPAGE - Test simulates descender wear - 12-20mm allowed depending on Type.
WEIGHT PER METER - a better measure than Diameter with which to compare different models .Heavier ropes have more material and generally have better longevity,
* BEST USE (in ranking order) A = Alpine Rock & Ice; I = Waterfall Ice; M = Mixed Rock & Ice, S = Sport Climbing (falling, hanging, lowering); T = Trad Rock (multi-pitch, placing protection); TR = Top Roping, W = Big Walls & Aid Climbing
BOBBINS: low number = generally better abrasion resistance; higher number - generally better dynamic performance
WEIGHT of SHEATH: lower % = greater flexibility & smoother running; higher % = increased durability and slightly stiffer running.
BICOLOR or BI-PATTERN sheath provides permanent identification of the mid point; TRIOSAFE available in certain Mammut models permanently marks middle and also provides 5 meter warning of an approaching rope end.
OTHER LENGTHS: call for 50M prices, special lengths up to 200M (660 ft) and current colors.

 

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