|
|
UIAATest
->
mfg/model
|
Dia.
|
|
UIAA
#101
Test Falls
|
Impact
Force
|
Dynam
Elong
% |
|
Sheath
Slip-page
|
wt
|
#
of
bobbins |
sheath
mass |
best
use * |
|
Price
std/dry
$/$
60M |
Price
std/dry
$/$
70M |
| |
BlueWater |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
EXCELLENCE |
8.4 |
1/2 |
10 |
5.5 |
33.7 |
11 |
-8 |
46 |
40 |
41 |
A,I,M,T |
no |
172/190 |
na/219 |
| |
ICON
BiPattern Dry
|
9.1 |
1 |
5 |
8.8 |
32.7 |
7.2 |
-3 |
55 |
40 |
35 |
A,I,T |
yes
|
Bi Dry
268
|
Bi Dry
285
|
| |
XENON
twin, single & half rated |
9.2 |
OO
1/2
1 |
7 |
8.1 |
34 |
0 |
4.8 |
56 |
40 |
33 |
A,S,T |
yes
|
Dry 208
|
-
|
| |
LIGHTNING
PRO |
9.7 |
1 |
8 |
7.9 |
34.9 |
8.5 |
1 |
61 |
48 |
36 |
S,T,I,M |
yes |
203/221
Bi 256 |
237/255
Bi 291 |
| |
|
10.2 |
1 |
8 |
8.1 |
34 |
7.5 |
4 |
64 |
48 |
34 |
T,S,M |
yes |
207/224
Bi 273 |
241/261
Bi 298 |
| |
|
10.5 |
1 |
11 |
7.9 |
34.2 |
8.7 |
1 |
69 |
48 |
31 |
W,T, TR |
yes |
210/228
BI 309
|
na/na |
| |
Mammut |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
7.5 |
1/2
1
00 |
18
5
20 |
8.5
6.3
9.5 |
31.6 |
8.8
7.5 |
0 |
51 |
48 |
36 |
A,I.M |
no |
na/215 |
na/225 |
| |
|
8.0 |
1/2
1
00 |
18
5
20 |
8.5
6.3
9.5 |
31.6 |
8.8
7.5 |
0 |
51 |
48 |
36 |
A,I.M |
no |
na/189 |
na/204 |
| |
|
8.7 |
1/2
1
00 |
18
5
20 |
8.5
6.3
9.5 |
31.6 |
8.8
7.5 |
0 |
51 |
48 |
36 |
A,I.M |
no |
na/269 |
na/299 |
| |
|
9.0 |
1/2
1
00 |
18
5-6
20 |
8.5
6.3
9.2 |
31
|
7.5
7.8 |
0 |
54 |
40 |
40 |
T,I,M,A |
no |
na/269 |
na/299 |
| |
|
9.5 |
1 |
8-9 |
8.8 |
32 |
8.0 |
0 |
59 |
40 |
40 |
T,I,W |
no |
na/249 |
na/289 |
| |
|
9.5 |
1 |
6-7 |
8.8 |
33 |
8.0 |
0 |
59 |
40 |
40 |
S,T,W |
no |
169/na
Duo
280 |
199/na
Duo
320 |
| |
|
9.8 |
1 |
7-8 |
9 |
32.7 |
8.0 |
0 |
64 |
40 |
40 |
T,S |
no |
169/na
|
199/na
|
| |
Petzl |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
9.2 |
1,1/2
00 |
6 |
8.6 |
33 |
7.5 |
0 |
55 |
40 |
42 |
S,T,A,M |
no |
na/269 |
na/299 |
| |
|
9.5 |
1 |
7 |
8.8 |
32 |
7.6 |
0 |
58 |
40 |
40 |
S,T,A,M |
no |
na/249 |
na/279 |
| |
|
9.8 |
1 |
7 |
8.4 |
35 |
9 |
0 |
60 |
40 |
41 |
T,S,A,M |
no |
239/na |
259/na |
| |
|
10.1 |
1 |
7 |
8.5 |
34 |
8.5 |
0 |
65 |
na |
40 |
W,T |
no |
219/na |
249/na |
| |
Roca |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
OLIANA
ENDURANCE Dry |
9.2 |
1
1/2
00 |
5
5
12
|
7.1
7.1
7.4
|
37
37
2
|
8
8
7
|
0 |
56 |
- |
40 |
S,T,A,M |
no |
|
na/248
|
| |
|
9.2 |
1
1/2
00 |
8
30
50 |
7.8
6.0
9.2 |
- |
8
8
4.8 |
0 |
59 |
- |
36 |
S,T,A,M |
no |
199/na |
229/na
sale 171.88 |
| |
|
9.6 |
1 |
7 |
8.2 |
36 |
6.5 |
0 |
65 |
- |
36 |
|
no |
209/na |
229/na |
| |
Sterling |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
EVOLUTION
VELOCITY Dry |
9.8 |
1 |
6 |
8.8 |
26.4 |
8 |
0 |
62 |
na |
|
I,A,M |
no |
- |
- |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
UIAATest
->
mfg/model
|
Dia.
|
|
UIAA
#101
Test Falls
|
Impact
Force
|
Dynam
Elong. |
|
Sheath
Slip-page
|
wt
|
#
of
bobbins |
sheath
mass |
best
use * |
|
Price
std/dry
60M |
Price
std/dry
70M |
| |
UIAA Norm |
twin |
|
12 80kg |
< 12 |
40 |
10 |
20 |
- |
- |
- |
|
- |
- |
- |
| UIAA Norm |
half |
|
5 55kg |
< 8 |
40 |
20 |
12 |
- |
- |
- |
|
- |
- |
- |
| UIAA Norm |
sin-
gle |
|
5
80kg |
< 12 |
40 |
10 |
20 |
- |
- |
- |
|
- |
- |
- |
| 2015 - NEW STANDARD |
* UIAA DRY - water absorption standard =
less 5% total wt. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Notes:
DIAMETER - measured while weight hangs from rope,
affected by weave as well as amount of material
UIAA TYPE (click
here for graphic info)
TWIN ROPES OO - used in pairs, both Ropes must be clipped
to each protection point;
HALF ROPES 1/2 - used in pairs, each rope is clipped singly
to alternating (every other) protection point;
SINGLE ROPES 1 - used singly, the rope is clipped to each
protection point.
UIAA FALLS (click here for graphic info)
- general measure of overall durability in a "worst
case" scenario with 1.77 fall factor- see test diagram.
Comparable only within same UIAA Type as tests are preformed
with either 50 kg (half ropes - 5 fall min.) or 80 kg
mass (single ropes 5 fall min, and twin rope systems -
12 fall min).
IMPACT FORCE - the maximum force generated during
a test fall, lower force = softer "catch" 12kN
max for Single and Twin Rope Systems; 8 kN max for Half
Ropes
DYNAMIC ELONGATION - the % rope stretch occurring
during 1st Test Fall. 40% max.
STATIC ELONGATION - the % of rope stretch with
80 kg (176 lbs) simulating "climber" load. Must
be less than 10% for Single and Twin Rope Systems and
less than 20% for Half Ropes.
SHEATH SLIPPAGE - Test simulates descender wear
- 12-20mm allowed depending on Type.
WEIGHT PER METER - a better measure than Diameter
with which to compare different models .Heavier ropes
have more material and generally have better longevity,
* BEST USE (in ranking order) A = Alpine Rock &
Ice; I = Waterfall Ice; M = Mixed Rock & Ice, S =
Sport Climbing (falling, hanging, lowering); T = Trad
Rock (multi-pitch, placing protection); TR = Top Roping,
W = Big Walls & Aid Climbing
BOBBINS: low number = generally better abrasion
resistance; higher number - generally better dynamic performance
WEIGHT of SHEATH: lower % = greater flexibility
& smoother running; higher % = increased durability
and slightly stiffer running.
BICOLOR or BI-PATTERN sheath provides permanent
identification of the mid point; TRIOSAFE available in
certain Mammut models permanently marks middle and also
provides 5 meter warning of an approaching rope end.
OTHER LENGTHS: call for 50M prices, special lengths
up to 200M (660 ft) and current colors. |
|
|
|
USA
/ Int'l Orders 83I 62O-O9II